Why Rustic European Food Doesn't Need Fixing
A defense of rustic European cooking, from a former line cook who worked the wood-burning oven at a West Village restaurant. The case for cassoulet, stew, and the food that outlasts trends.
Section
Food cultures, traditions, and reporting from elsewhere.
A defense of rustic European cooking, from a former line cook who worked the wood-burning oven at a West Village restaurant. The case for cassoulet, stew, and the food that outlasts trends.
The French early-evening drinks ritual — what's served, when it happens, and how it differs from cocktail hour elsewhere in the world.
Small plates, billing, etiquette, and regional variations across Spain — what a real tapas bar is, how to order at one, and what 'tapeo' as a way of eating really means.
The working-class Spanish sandwich — what's in it, what's not, why it's different from American sandwiches, and the regional varieties worth seeking out.
The Spanish word for the long, slow hour after lunch — what it means, why the schedule supports it, and why this magazine took its name from it.
The Japanese pub-style dining institution — what's served, how to order, the etiquette that holds it together, and why the format has been hard to export.
The differences between trattoria, ristorante, and osteria — what to expect at each, what's on the menu, and how the categories have blurred over time.
How industrial vacuum-rolled jamón ibérico displaced the bone-in tradition across most of Spain — and why a small set of producers are still curing the old way.
Manizales sits at the heart of Colombia's coffee belt — and exports nearly all of its best beans. The economics behind why a region known for world-class coffee mostly drinks instant.